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Not all "Hearts &
Arrows" diamonds are created equal...
A clarification on the realm of "Hearts &
Arrows" diamonds in the current market...
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Top View of (H~A)2™ Ideal Cut
Diamond as seen through a Gems Fantasy Scope.
Circa 1997.
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Bottom View of (H~A)2™ Ideal Cut
Diamond as seen through a Gems Fantasy Scope.
Circa 1997.
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Beyond the realms of Ideal
proportions, lies the seemingly mythical world of "Hearts
& Arrows" (pictured above) where prismatic brilliance flaunts itself brightly and draws
you deep within like moth to a flame... Precisely aligned and carefully
shaped facets combine with optimum proportions to produce a beautiful
pattern of Hearts & Arrows that seems to feed the soul and tantalize the
senses... Although we do not feel that the presence of a crisp and
complete Hearts & Arrows pattern adds anything to the visual properties of a
diamond in terms of brilliance, dispersion or scintillation, those cute little hearts can add a little mental boost
in the romance department if you're smart enough to give each of them a
"special meaning" that is specific to your relationship.
Hey, if all else fails and you can't think of eight special meanings, there
is something "memorable" that you've done at least eight
times, right?
This is a page
from our original site, please click here to
visit our current site!
The pictures shown above are actual
representations of a top and bottom view of a "Hearts &
Arrows" diamond. They are not computer images or drawings.
There is nothing mythical
nor make believe about "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds... They
exist and we think that those hearts are a wondrous sight to see through a
scope, no matter how much some
jewelers still try to deny their existence, or try to convince you that the "Hearts
& Arrows" phenomena is merely smoke and mirrors. The fact
of the matter
is that "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds have been the focus of numerous articles in National
Jeweler Magazine and Modern Jeweler Magazine and Jewelers
Circular Keystone Magazine and are sold by
several diamond brokerages under a variety of brand names (a concept that
we'll discuss further down).
Are they "The Most
Beautiful" diamond available on the market today?
Well, they were for a time... Up until
a few years ago when they were pretty much the only option available in
terms of truly well crafted ideal cut diamonds. However the reality is that the producers of
ideal cut diamonds who were skilled enough to do so, strove to copy the
"formula" created by the Japanese for maximizing the brilliance and dispersion of a diamond that is
used by the cutters that produce diamonds that exhibit the Hearts &
Arrows effects... The end result has created widespread improvement
of the ideal cut diamond as we know it in our industry and the emergence of
what we refer to as "Super Ideal". We are no longer able to
detect a visual
distinction between ideal cut diamonds that exhibit a precise pattern of
hearts and arrows and those that do not, providing that certain combinations
of degrees and angles remain within precise tolerances. This is not to
say that all ideal cut diamonds exhibit visual properties equal to, or
better, than Hearts & Arrows diamonds... Only that many
do. Our focus when selecting diamonds for our inventory is
no longer based on whether a diamond exhibits a pattern or not, but rather
whether or not the diamond exhibits a high level of brilliance, dispersion
and scintillation and the key factor to this regard is the actual
proportions of the diamond and not the presence or absence of a pattern.
In plain English, the presence of a Hearts & Arrows pattern is not the
indicator of brilliance, dispersion or scintillation that it used to
be. Many of the super ideal cut diamonds available on the market
today, rival and often exceed the visual properties of the Hearts &
Arrows diamonds that we see in the current market. Some of the super
ideal cut diamonds even exhibit patterns that are very close to being
perfect Hearts & Arrows, which we now consider to be nothing more than an added bonus...
So don't be lured into the concept that your diamond has to exhibit an
internal pattern of hearts and arrows to be the best, the harsh reality is
that the pattern will no longer be visible once the diamond is mounted
- after all, the big "Wow" factor is the hearts which appear on the
bottom of the stone and they will be hidden by the prongs once the stone is
set.
Because so many of the Super Ideal Cut Diamonds available on the market
today, rival the beauty and visual performance that was previously only
available from true Hearts & Arrows stones (but without the added
premium) we urge you to keep an open mind as to the presence or lack of a
pattern, and allow us to assist you in selecting your diamond based on the
visual performance of the diamond and not necessarily the presence of a
pattern. In other words, if there are two or three diamonds in our
live inventory with comparable characteristics (carat weight, color,
clarity) we suggest that you ask us to compare them for you so that we may
help you select the best of the group based on the actual visual performance...
Our Top Secret Procedure for doing so involves... Wait! What are we
thinking... We will never disclose our secret process for determining
the champion puppy in a comparison to the Infidel Bottom Feeders that steal
our concepts and copy us! We will take it to our death! But have
no fear, we can tell you which diamond in a comparison is the prettiest and
pumps out the most awesome light! As for our procedure, did you miss
it? It's a secret. But we will tell you that since we own our
exclusive inventory and each stone in a given weight category has the same
profit structure, we have no need to sell one diamond over another, and thus
can provide you with an honest, unbiased evaluation of the diamonds being
considered...
98% of a diamond's visual
performance is
controlled by it's cut.
Aside from the fact that the "Hearts
& Arrows" pattern is very cool what truly "made" these diamonds
remarkable when they first emerged on the market many years ago, was the amount of light return that they
produced. Precise
alignment of the facets and careful attention to the crown and pavilion
angles of a "Hearts & Arrows" diamond resulted in maximum light return.
A few years ago, this type of "balanced" brilliance and dispersion
with a high degree of scintillation was only available from Hearts & Arrows diamonds, but in recent years
the producers of the super ideal cut diamonds that we work with have fine tuned their
production to deliver similar results without the added expense demanded by
the increased time it takes to produce a crisp pattern of hearts and
arrows. In fact, we can no longer tell the
difference between our Super Ideal and Hearts & Arrows Ideal Cut
Diamonds without using a special scope. This is not necessarily true
of "all ideal cut diamonds" so please understand that we are not
making a blanket statement of equality amongst ideal cuts... We very carefully hand select
our diamonds using a very strict and precise set of parameters yet still
some are brighter than others (if that doesn't blow your mind we don't know
what will). Many
of the "hearts and arrows" and ideal cut diamonds sent to us for
evaluation are returned to the cutters for failing to impress us.
How do you know that we represent
the very best?
Because we "cherry pick" the
inventory of our suppliers after the GIA and AGS have done their
work... We do more than simply listing ideal cut diamonds for
sale... We hand select our exclusive inventory with careful attention
to detail... We begin by sorting through the diamonds offered to us by
our suppliers from a paper perspective, weeding out and eliminating the
"weaker ideal cuts" and those containing undesirable inclusion
types and formations from the possibilities... Then the remaining
candidates (not many after we're through with the list) are sent to us for
further evaluation... Each diamond is then evaluated for brilliance,
dispersion and scintillation... The inclusions of each diamond are
evaluated using high magnification... Diamonds surviving our intense
physical evaluation process are then placed for adoption on our Private Reserve. The rest are returned to
the cutter where they will be sold to our less discriminating competitors.
Many people do not realize the depth of our commitment to quality until we
embark on a search for a specific diamond for them and they get to see our
evaluation process first hand... Awhile back one of our clients asked
us to help him find a three carat, H, SI-1 ideal cut diamond. It
took several weeks for one meeting our initial selection criteria to surface
in the market... We discussed the paper aspects of the diamond with
Tom and he was quite excited... We brought the diamond in for physical
evaluation and contacted Tom to let him know that we were returning the
diamond to the cutter because it lacked the brilliance and dispersion that
we crave... To put it simply, Tom was stunned... He actually
began to argue with us "but the proportions are perfect!" and
"but, but, but, she'll kill me! She's been waiting for
weeks!" Eventually Tom came to the conclusion that something must
be up if we weren't willing to sell him the stone... A few weeks
later, another possibility emerged... Again, everything looked
fantastic on paper, but we disagreed with the clarity grade assigned to the
diamond feeling that it was too weak... The fact of the matter is that
we will not sell a diamond if we disagree with the characteristics stated on
the diamond grading report unless it is to your benefit... By this
time Tom was in shock... Fortunately a few days later another
"possibility" appeared and it met all of our selection
criteria... The diamond was simply magnificent and we couldn't wait to
call him because we knew that his anniversary was just around the corner and
that if he didn't produce "the diamond" that his
ass-was-grass... He'd told us previously that she was revving up the
lawn mower... As you might be able to imagine, the diamonds that
actually make it on to our Private Reserve
receive this type of consideration so that we may be confident that we are
offering our clients the very best that we can possibly find... Some
of the diamonds listed in our Private Reserve are obviously going to be
prettier than others and that is why you should use our minds and
eyes... Note that due to recent laws pertaining to the internet, those
are the only body part that you can play with here at NiceIce.
A glimpse into how it
works...
A diamond's "crown" [the top half of the stone] controls
it's fire which is the dispersion of prismatic color that emerges from
a diamond... A diamond's "pavilion" [the bottom half of the stone]
controls it's brilliance [reflected white light]. The symmetry and alignment of a diamond's
facets are what control scintillation which is the movement of
light inside of the diamond... the inside of a diamond is similar to a hall of
mirrors and if cut properly those
"mirrors" reflect the light back at you... Depending how the
diamond was cut, the shape of the diamond may be out of round, the facets
might be misshapen or irregular in size, might fail to point towards one
another, or might not align properly with the facets directly opposite of
each other... Such discrepancies in a diamond's cut results in light
"leaking" out of the diamond.
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When we first introduced "Hearts &
Arrows" diamonds to the American market many years ago, this
is the pattern that could be seen in most of the ideal cut diamonds
that were available on the market when the diamond was evaluated
through a Gems Fantasy Scope. Today most ideal cut diamonds
exhibit some sort of a pattern of hearts and arrows, but many
exhibit patterns that are distorted or incomplete and are thus not
listed in our Private Reserve as exhibiting a pattern... |
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The white and aqua blue wisps seen
around the edge of the diamond pictured above represent the amount of light that is
"leaking" from the stone... Tighter proportions and
precise symmetry reduce the amount of light that leaks from a
diamond... We hand select our diamonds very carefully to maximize
light return and reject those that do not, returning them to the
cutter where they will be sold to other vendors with less precise
selection criteria... |
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Notice how this top view of the arrows pattern
within a "Hearts & Arrows" diamond does not exhibit
the white and aqua blue wisps seen in the ideal cut pictured
above... |
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The same absence of white and aqua blue wisps is
seen here in this bottom view of a "Hearts & Arrows"
diamond... |
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Now the diamond pictured above looked
pretty good through a handheld Gems Fantasy Scope... It wasn't
until we placed him under "the Monster" that we were able
to distinguish the variations in the arrows pattern.
Why? Because "the Monster" allowed us to view the
diamond at the size of a Texas Grapefruit with the benefit
of a targeted light source. We feel that it is important to
note that "the Monster" is not the standard GIA Gem Scope
that most us use for grading the clarity characteristics of a
diamond... It is a special lab quality gem scope designed by the
Japanese for grading the perfection of Hearts & Arrows
patterns. It serves no other purpose. It took us quite awhile to get our hands on it and
there are days when we wished we never had because it enables us to
see far too much, but at least now we can understand the extent of
the Japanese grading scale. Awhile ago we got into a debate with a supplier that kept insisting that his diamonds were
"Hearts & Arrows" and we kept sending him pictures
pointing out why they weren't. His eventual and final response was to
exasperate that he was thankful that the rest of his stateside
customers were too cheap to spend their money on such a scope!
He now refers to his diamonds as ideal cuts when
offering them to us... Proof that men are trainable. |
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This is the bottom side of the Super
Ideal Cut Diamond that we showed you the arrows pattern of
previously. Although a pattern of hearts is visible, the
pattern is inconsistent to a degree that causes us to reject the
diamond as Hearts & Arrows and represent it as merely
ideal. Does this inconsistency of the hearts pattern have a
negative effect on the beauty of this diamond? Not in the
slightest, in fact it is visibly more brilliant and dispersive than many of the H&A diamonds
in our inventory. We remind you that each stone must be
considered on it's own merits... |
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Here is a top side view of another
"Super Ideal" cut diamond from our inventory. This
particular diamond exhibits a strong arrows pattern that is near
perfect and certainly stronger than the arrows pattern pictured
above. The subtle shading of some of the arrow shafts and
tips prevent the diamond from being considered as a true Hearts &
Arrows diamond, however in this particular instance it was not
detracting from the visual performance of the diamond. Here again, the shading of the pattern was not
visible through the handheld Gems Fantasy Scope and did not become
apparent to us until we evaluated this puppy under "the
Monster". |
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This is a bottom view of the Hearts
pattern exhibited within this "Super Ideal" cut
diamond. While the hearts pattern is certainly much better
than the one pictured in the other Super Ideal cut diamond noted
above, there is a slight variation in the size and shape of the
hearts and some subtle shading which results representing the
diamond has having a Hearts & Arrows Effect despite the fact that
it looked "perfect" through the handheld Gems Fantasy
Scope. Note that our rating of the
pattern has nothing to do with the polish and symmetry of the stone
which is GIA Excellent. |
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The Hearts & Arrows pattern of
this Super Ideal cut diamond is near perfect. In fact, the
pattern is extremely
close to being perfect. When viewed through the handheld Gems Fantasy
Scope (which many dealers photograph their patterns through) it even
looks perfect, but the subtle shadowing of the tip of the arrow in
the three o'clock position that became visible when this diamond was
viewed through "the Monster" caused us to grade this stone as having
an "effect" but not a rated H&A pattern. |
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This is the Hearts pattern exhibited
by this diamond. It is also near perfect. But look
very hard at the heart in the five o'clock position in comparison to
the others... Now look at the one in the eight o'clock
position... Can you see the slight variance in size and
shape? Subtle... Very subtle without a doubt.
But it is our attention to such detail that we believe sets us apart
from other dealers. Yes we know that our release of
"the Monster" upon the trade is cruel. Godzilla
lives! |
The
"Brand" does not make the diamond...
It merely identifies the company reselling the stone.
To the best of our knowledge, there were only a few diamond cutting companies
in the world capable of producing what we consider to be true "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds and we
purchase diamonds direct from many of them. All of them are located in either
Israel or Belgium and until a few years ago all distribution was limited to
Japan. When the Yen collapsed, these diamond cutters offered their
production to a handful of companies in the United States who now market
them under a variety of brand names in an attempt to appear to be offering
an exclusive product that is not available from any other source...
"Brand" does not make a Hearts & Arrows diamond, especially
when most of the "brands" are sourced from the same suppliers and
"re-packaged" under the brand name... Regardless of
"the brand" each diamond must be evaluated on its own merits and
not on the "word" of the seller, the "reputation" of the
company or brand, or a generic photograph that is being used for all of the
stones in their inventory. We have evaluated several diamonds from
each "brand" and have determined that each diamond must be
considered individually upon it's own merits without consideration for the brand name
because many of the brands lack consistency and rely heavily on advertising
to create consumer confidence rather than consistent quality. This is
because we've seen inconsistencies within each brand where sometimes the
diamond is beautiful and exhibits a very nice pattern and other times it
does not yet the diamonds are always marketed as Hearts & Arrows.
This concept is true of any branded item that is mass produced and marketed,
if you think of it in terms of automobiles we're sure that you'll agree.
In case you didn't catch the "brand" concept in the preceding
paragraph, the "key phrase" in that last paragraph was "a handful of companies that
now market them under a variety of brand names". Surf the web and you
will find several companies marketing diamonds that exhibit the same
pattern pictured at the top of this page under various brand names. Many
of them claim to be the only sellers of this type of merchandise and that
only their brand exhibit a true "H&A" pattern. Some have
even changed the blue images in these photographs to red using Photoshop but
the image itself is unchanged with the exception of its color. Some even
claim to cut the goods themselves when we know for a fact that they are buying
from the same suppliers that we buy from. This became apparent to us when (1) they couldn't
explain how to cut a stone to us; and (2) didn't understand our demand for
precise proportions with regards to crispness of pattern; and (3) were
confused when we told them how these things "tick"; and (4)
wouldn't allow us to watch them cut a stone despite the fact that they had a
(rather clean) diamond cutting wheel in their office; and (5) they
were offering us diamonds that we'd seen previously on the list of another
supplier at considerably better prices. Enough said. You
don't even want us to go there. Regardless of the brand name, the most important factor is whether the
pattern is crisp and complete [symmetrical and vivid]. The reality is that
most of us are all buying them from the same companies and are merely
marketing them under our own labels. Who are those companies?
Now, you know that we can't mention that for legal reasons. Don't
ask, you'll just get a generic "they're a very fine brand" type of
answer from us because "they're a very fine brand of
diamond"... Get it?
Although we have registered a trademark (H~A)2™
for our "brand" of "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds, we
are not interested in building a nationally recognized brand name in the
traditional sense of the word... Merely protecting our right to
discuss Hearts & Arrows diamonds in a language reserved for our
"brand" because there was a time when the U.S. Market was fighting
over the terms used to represent diamonds that exhibit patterns of Hearts
& Arrows. Thus we refer to our "Hearts
& Arrows" diamonds as "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds not
"Brand-X" or "Brand-Y" or even (H~A)2™
because building a "household" brand name
costs $$$ BIG MONEY that we thought you would rather spend on a bigger,
brighter, whiter diamond rather than our advertising budget. If you think
that we're kidding, compare the prices [and patterns] of those name brand
"Hearts & Arrows" diamonds to our "Hearts &
Arrows" diamonds and you'll get a feel for how much money it costs to
build a brand. You can pay for the name, or you can pay for the diamond,
the choice is yours. We figure that our brand name of (H~A)2™
will build itself over time by word of mouth.
Calling it "Hearts
& Arrows" does not necessarily make it so...
Do we even need to explain this? Think
of the last experience you had on a car lot. Okay, for the numb at
heart... As the popularity of Hearts & Arrows diamonds grew in the
market a few years ago, a few idiots got it in their heads that any diamond
with ideal proportions graded by AGS as having an overall cut grade of AGS
Ideal-0 (AGS-000 by slang terms) was automatically Hearts &
Arrows. The same apparently is true of any ideal cut diamond graded
by the GIA as having Excellent polish and symmetry. Boy, did these
guys miss the boat! It has taken us two years to get some of the
cutting houses to grasp the concept that AGS-000, AGS-0000 and GIA EX EX, does not mean
that the diamond exhibits a crisp and complete pattern of Hearts &
Arrows! Now, get ready to pick yourself up off of the floor... Most
of them didn't even have a Gems Fantasy Scope and didn't even know what one
was. Yet they were convinced that there was a pattern in their
diamonds (because they needed it to be for marketing purposes) and knew that most consumers do not
have access to a scope and thus wouldn't know the difference... We're
still irritated about this. And we still see diamonds represented as
"Hearts & Arrows" with proportions that we know make it
impossible for a crisp and complete pattern to emerge.
We are frequently contacted by manufacturers of
ideal cut diamonds who proudly announce that they can now supply
us with the "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds that we need. Out of respect
and a great deal of hope, we ask
them to send a selection of these diamonds to us for evaluation. We have
yet to have even one of our thirty suppliers of ideal cut diamonds produce a
single diamond that exhibits a pattern of hearts and arrows crisp enough to
deserve comparison to those manufactured by the original five cutting
houses. However, these pseudo hearts and arrows diamonds make
absolutely wonderful ideal cut diamonds and we are proud to represent them
as Super Ideal Cut Diamonds in our Private
Reserve and will display the photographs of any discernable pattern when
present.
Diamonds that exhibit a partial Hearts
& Arrows pattern, or a pattern that is not crisp, and which can only
be seen if you move your head from side to side or in a circle while you look at
the diamond through a refractive scope are NOT considered to be true
"Hearts & Arrows"
diamonds by those people in the industry who know better... Other tell tale
signs of a want-to-be "Hearts & Arrows" diamonds are tips of arrows
that bend a little to the right or left... hearts that are irregular in
size or shape... arrows that are faded, or extremely thin or thick, or
which vary in length and
width... Shorter patterns that are located deeper in the diamond (around
the middle) rather than emerging from the upper portion of the diamond and
extending towards the edge of the stone are also not acceptable.
A true "Hearts & Arrows" pattern does
not resemble Salvador Dali's surrealistic painting "Chromosome of a
Highly Colored Fish's Eye" where everything is distorted and melting
together. The "Hearts & Arrows" pattern is supposed to be complete,
exceptionally crisp, and immediately visible when the diamond is viewed
under a refractive scope.
We sometimes refer to diamonds that exhibit partial, weak, or slightly distorted
patterns as those that are "trying to be Hearts & Arrows".
They should not, however, be represented as "Hearts & Arrows" and would
not receive the "Hearts & Arrows - Excellent" rating by the
laboratories in Japan and Israel.
We are connoisseurs of fine make and have
specialized in ideal cut diamonds for years. While many companies
sell everything that qualifies as a diamond, we sell only round brilliant
ideal cut diamonds and focus all of our efforts examining and hand
selecting every "Hearts & Arrows" and Super Ideal Cut diamond that we sell so
that you are guaranteed of the highest quality.
The Most Brilliant
Diamond your "Luv-Bunny" ever sees
Should be on her hand...
So be a Good Boy and Fetch one of the Puppies on our Private Reserve
You won't be sorry. We hand select our
exclusive inventory for maximum visual effect. They
are truly orgasmic and guaranteed
to make your kitty purr and purr and purr... They are significantly
brighter and much more brilliant than standard round brilliant cut
diamonds and all of your friends will stare in amazement when presented with
"The Rock" whether you're in a brilliantly lit restaurant, or at
home in the garage or kitchen. And that's the real test because believe
it when we tell you that any diamond looks good under 300 watt halogen diamond lights.
The real test of a diamond's brilliance is how beautiful it is when you
get it home and examine it in the real world!
Every one of our (H~A)2™
Hearts & Arrows and Super Ideal Cut Diamonds is an exceptional combination of
math and physics resulting in facets cut with precisely defined angles and
proportions that create remarkable spectral light shows. Regardless of
whether you select a diamond that exhibits this very cool pattern or one
that does not, we guarantee your satisfaction and look forward to
helping you select a very special diamond of dynamic proportions!
(H~A)2™ and Hand Selected Super Ideal Cut
Diamonds
When Nothing Short of Perfection Will Do...
The Private Reserve of NiceIce
May we help you find the diamond of your dreams?
Send us an email diamonds@niceice.com
and tell us what you are looking for.
Or give us a call at 206.319.8152 or Toll Free 877.844.5443
Copyright © 1996 - 2009 Nice
Ice, Inc.
AGS®
is a registered trademark of the American Gem Society (702) 255-6500
GIA® is a registered trademark of the Gemological Institute of America
(760) 603-4000
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