Blue Nile Signature Cushion vs Enchanted Diamonds Cushion Hearts and Arrows Diamonds

Enchanted C157-T9S224, GIA 1176261478-hearts-scopeSo I’m chatting with Jonathan and Joshua from Enchanted Diamonds the other day via Skype and they send me a link to this 1.57 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, cushion cut from Enchanted Diamonds. They say nothing else, obviously they are waiting for me to click on the link, which I’m obviously going to do… And my first thought is “Hey that’s cool, Enchanted Diamonds is selling hearts and arrows cushion cut diamonds now.” And my next thought is wait a second, that diamond looks kind of familiar, it looks just like a Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond, and of course I have to check it  out, so I conduct a Search for Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamonds and pull up the diamond details page for this 1.51 carat, G-color, Internally Flawless, Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond, and pull up a copy of the GIA diamond grading report so that I can compare plotting diagrams.

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Hearts and Arrows Cushion Cut Diamonds:

Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows diamond reviews, LD05261079, GIA 2161857622Here is the hearts image provided on the diamond details page for this 1.51 carat, G-color, Internally Flawless, Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond. Needless to say, the hearts pattern exhibited by this diamond seems comparable to the hearts pattern exhibited by the 1.57 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds. Both diamonds exhibit a fairly decent looking hearts pattern. Understand that I don’t expect the hearts pattern of a cushion cut diamond to be as symmetrical and precise as the pattern exhibited by a round hearts and arrows cut diamond, because cushion cut diamonds are not symmetrical in shape. A round brilliant cut diamond is round, and thus it is possible to create a facet structure which is more or less perfectly symmetrical. However square cushion cut diamonds have soft corners, and this creates a challenge for the cutter when trying to produce a crisp and complete pattern of hearts and arrows, there will be variances, but suffice to say that the hearts and arrows patterns exhibited by these two diamonds looks pretty similar.

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They Might As Well Be Twins:

As near as I can tell from comparing the plotting diagrams featured on the GIA diamond grading reports issued for this 1.57 carat, G-color, Internally Flawless, Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds and this 1.51 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, Blue Nile Signature Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond, pictured below, they might as well be twins:

Enchanted Diamonds Cushion hearts and arrows diamond, C157-T9S224, GIA 1176261478 vs Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond, LD05261079, GIA 2161857622

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Where's Wally? The Incredible Paper Chase by Martin Handford, available from AmazonDo you see any differences between the plotting diagrams featured for the two diamonds? This is more of a rhetorical question, not the kind of challenge presented in Find Wally, The Incredible Paper Chase by Martin Handford. As near as I can tell, there are no differences between the facet structures of this 1.57 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds, and this 1.51 carat, G-color, Internally Flawless, Blue Nile Signature Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond.

The plotting diagrams for the two diamonds pictured above look exactly the same to me, with exception of the presence of the needle shape and pinpoint size diamond crystals which are the primary inclusions (clarity characteristics) present within the VVS-2 clarity diamond from Enchanted Diamonds.

So what does that mean? It seems to me that either the diamond cutter who is producing the Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond is expanding their client base, or another cutter has copied the design of the diamond.

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Here is where things get really interesting…

According to the description page for the Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond, the patent number for the diamond design is USD701138 and the filing date was September 20, 2013. Blue Nile was accused of stealing the design of this diamond by Canadian diamond company Worldwide Diamond Trademarks (WDT) in 2014. You can read the full story in this article that appeared in Jeweller Magazine in July 2014. Here are the images for the design that was filed with the most recent patent registration which was filed November 27, 2012:

Facet design for hearts and arrows cushion cut diamond, Worldwide Diamond, Canada, Patent number EP2826392A1

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What a Can of Worms!

So Blue Nile gets sued by Worldwide Diamond for selling a Hearts and Arrows Cushion cut diamond that looks similar to the one produced by Worldwide Diamond, and now it appears that Enchanted Diamonds is selling Hearts and Arrows Cushion Cut diamonds that, ahem, appear to be “extremely similar” to the design of the Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond. Of course you know that I just had to look up the source cutter who is producing the diamond for them, and it does not appear to be the same diamond cutter who is producing the diamonds for Blue Nile… At least it’s not the same name as indicated in the article that appeared in Jeweller Magazine. What a Can of Worms! But this is the nature of the diamond and jewelry industry, it seems like any time somebody comes up with a great design that becomes popular, everybody else races to try and copy it, and then they all rush off to court to try to defend their piece of the pie, see Tiffany & Co., vs Costco.

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What a can of worms! Enchanted Diamonds hearts and arrows cushion versus Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamondBut is that really what’s going on here? Or is this simply a case of diamonds that have very similar designs? Because I can see some slight differences between the design of the Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond that is patented by Worldwide Diamond and the facet structure of the 1.57 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds, and the 1.51 carat, G-color, Internally Flawless, Blue Nile Signature cushion cut diamond referenced above. Although the plotting diagrams provided for those two diamonds do appear to be exactly the same to me… With regards to the dispute between Worldwide Diamond and Blue Nile, it should be noted that other media reports indicate minor difference between the two designs, such as the table facet on Blue Nile’s version “consist of eight sides of equal length while the table facet on [WDT’s] products consists of eight sides, four of which are one length and four of which are shorter”.

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Blue Nile Signature vs Worldwide Diamonds H&A Cushion:

Facet design comparison Blue Nile Signature hearts and arrows cushion cut diamond, versus Worldwide Diamond patent number EP2826392A1

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This certainly appears to be the case to me, it is evident to me when I compare the edges of the table facets for the two designs for Hearts and Arrows Cushion Cut Diamonds that I’ve highlighted yellow on the graphic pictured above, that the edges of the table facets are different for the Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond and the hearts and arrows cushion cut diamond design patented by Worldwide Diamond.

Another difference between the two diamonds that is apparent to me, is the shape of the bezel main facets, which are the facets that are diamond and kite shaped on the plotting diagrams that appear above highlighted in green. And if you look closely you’ll see that the shape of the upper girdle facets located along the edge of the diamonds is different as well. However the facet design of the Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond and the Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamonds offered by Enchanted Diamonds appear to be exactly the same.

Should You Buy a Blue Nile Signature or Enchanted Diamonds Cushion?

The obvious benefit for you as a consumer is that you now have two outlets online by which to purchase Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamonds of this particular facet design. I can’t tell you whether the prices on Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamonds are any better or worse than the prices on the hearts and arrows cushion cut diamonds being offered by Enchanted Diamonds, because I was unable to find two diamonds of comparable carat weight, color, or clarity.

I venture to say that the decision to purchase a Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond from either Blue Nile or Enchanted Diamonds, will probably come down to which vendor happens to have a diamond with the specifications that you happen to be looking for. Naturally I’ll be happy to help you select the best option available if you’d like to take advantage of my free Diamond Concierge Service.

One advantage to using my free Diamond Concierge Service is that I’m able to look up the diamond details for the Cushion cut hearts and arrows cut diamonds being offered by Enchanted Diamonds by manufacturer, using the MLS that is reserved to members of the trade, and then find them on Enchanted Diamonds by lab report number. Because at the time this article is being written, Enchanted Diamonds has not provided a way to filter the search results for cushion cut diamonds so that you can search for those that exhibit a pattern of hearts and arrows. And I can look for options that have both a polish and symmetry rating of GIA Excellent, instead of ones like this 1.57 carat, G-color, VVS-2 clarity, Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds which has Excellent Polish, but only Very Good Symmetry.

Enchanted Diamonds Hearts and Arrows Cushion Cut Diamond Reviews:

I used the MLS reserved by the trade to find the following options and then searched for them by diamond grading report number on Enchanted Diamonds, all of the these diamonds look promising:

Which all have GIA Excellent Polish and Symmetry, which is my preferred standard for fancy shape diamonds such as cushion cuts. There were a total of 7 Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamonds available from Enchanted Diamonds with GIA Excellent polish and symmetry when I conducted a search for them using the MLS, here is the list:

Search Enchanted Diamonds for Hearts and Arrows Cushion cuts, reviews

Let me know if any of the diamonds are of interest and I will provide you with full details, and of course I will be happy to run a fresh search for you since this list is subject to change as these diamonds are sold and new diamonds are produced. There are about 50 Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamonds available if I drop the parameters for polish and symmetry down to GIA Very Good. However I urge you to read the article: The Effect of Very Good Symmetry vs Excellent Symmetry on Diamond Sparkle so that you fully understand the importance of selecting a diamond with an overall cut grade of either GIA Excellent or AGS Ideal to achieve optimum sparkle factor.

Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond reviews:

There are also plenty of options available with GIA Excellent Polish and Symmetry available from Blue Nile, here are a few that caught my eye:

At present there are 93 Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamonds available with both a polish and symmetry rating of GIA Excellent, ranging in clarity from SI-1 to Internally Flawless, and a color range of D-color to J-color, with the largest being the 1.13 carat, I-color, VVS-2 clarity, Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond referenced above, and the smallest being a 0.52 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond. There are 196 Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamonds available if you expand the parameters  to include those options with very good polish and symmetry.

Search Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamonds reviews hearts and arrows

Be sure to read the article: The Effect of Very Good Symmetry vs Excellent Symmetry on Diamond Sparkle so that you fully understand the importance of selecting a diamond with an overall cut grade of either GIA Excellent or AGS Ideal, and this article about How the GIA Laboratory rounds off measurements on their diamond grading reports to understand why I prefer the grading standards of the American Gem Society Laboratory.

And Now For Something Completely Different:

While it is clear to me that the facet structure of the Blue Nile Signature Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond and the Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond from Enchanted Diamonds are “remarkably similar” and arguably there are only minor differences between them and the Hearts and Arrows Cushion cut diamond patented by Worldwide Diamond, the facet design of the Brian Gavin Signature Cushion Hearts and Arrows cut diamond is distinctly different:

Search Brian Gavin Signature Cushion hearts and arrows diamonds Design, Patent number USD639202

As you can clearly see by the facet design of the Brian Gavin Signature Hearts and Arrows cut diamond pictured above, it is not remotely similar to the facet design of the other Hearts and Arrows Cushion cut diamonds discussed previously, and as you might expect it is patented: Brian Gavin Signature Cushion Cut Diamond, U.S. Patent #USD639202. The fact of the matter is that I’ve been in LOVE with the Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond since I first set eyes upon it.

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Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond reviews, GCAL243460036 judging optical precisionSome of the characteristics of the Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond that I really like is that it features a symmetrical facet structure, the facets polished on to the surface of the diamond are the same size and shape per section, the four sides of the diamond feature the same facet structure and as a result the light reflects throughout the diamond evenly. You don’t get the distortion created by the bezel facets being different sizes in the North, South, East and West sides of the diamond as is visible in this 2.04 carat, G-color, VS-2 clarity, Blue Nile Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamond as a result of the bezel facets being different sizes in the four corners and on the four flat edges of the diamond. Another thing that I prefer about the Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond is that it features a girdle edge that is symmetrical and even, making it easier to set and simply better looking to me from the perspective of uniformity. And every Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond has an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0, he’s not messing around with GIA Very Good.

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I actually had the opportunity to compare a Brian Gavin Signature Cushion Cut Diamond side-by-side a Blue Nile Signature Cushion Cut Diamond of the same carat weight, color, and clarity awhile back when I met with a client who had ordered one of each. Both the client and I thought that the BGD Signature Cushion cut diamond produced sparkle that was larger in size, bolder, brighter, and more vivid than the sparkle exhibited by the Blue Nile Signature Cut Diamond.

We both thought that the Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond looked a bit like crushed ice, the sparkle exhibited by the diamond was smaller in size and looked more like pin-fire. Interestingly enough, his girlfriend preferred the pin-fire type sparkle of the Blue Nile Signature Cushion cut diamond. You can chalk this up to that whole Men Are From Mars and Women Are From Venus thing, but the reality is that personal preference is definitely a factor of the diamond selection process.

By the way a friend of mine sums up that book as “Women Are From Venus and Men Are Wrong” which might explain why I’m personally attracted to ideal cut diamonds that offer a high volume of light return and broad spectrum sparkle which is larger in size, and bolder, brighter, and more vivid than how I interpret diamonds with pin-fire type sparkle to be, but this is my preference and might not be yours… But that’s why you have a choice, not only between Hearts and Arrows Cushion cut diamonds of different facet structure, but also of which vendor you choose to purchase from.

Be sure to read my comparison of the Blue Nile Signature Cushion vs Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond for a bit more analysis on the differences between the different versions of cushion modified brilliant cut diamonds.

One thing to keep in mind is that there aren’t very many Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamonds to choose from at the moment, however each one of them has an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0 as determined on the Light Performance grading platform which incorporates Angular Spectrum Evaluation Technology (ASET) to measure the brightness exhibited by the diamonds, and which provides insight into how evenly light is reflecting and being distributed throughout the diamond, and each diamond is accompanied by the reflector scope images necessary to judge the degree of optical precision:

Search Brian Gavin Signature Cushion hearts and arrows cut diamonds

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I’ve never seen a production of cushion modified brilliant cut diamonds that exhibits such a high volume of light return that is evenly distributed throughout the diamond, nor which consistently qualify for the overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0, which I feel exceeds the grading standards of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory.

Don’t fret if you don’t see exactly what you’re looking for, I have it on good authority from Mr. Gavin himself that a new batch of Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamonds is in the works. In the mean time, I hope that the insight provided within this article was helpful and interesting. Please take advantage of my free Diamond Concierge Service if you’d like assistance sifting through the various options available, and by all means please leave a comment below.

Todd Gray
Todd Gray is a professional diamond buyer with 30+ years of trade experience. He loves to teach people how to buy diamonds that exhibit incredible light performance! In addition to writing for Nice Ice, Todd "ghost writes" blogs and educational content for other diamond sites. When Todd isn't chained to a desk, or consulting for the trade, he enjoys Freediving! (that's like scuba diving, but without air tanks)
Todd Gray

@NiceIceDiamonds

Professional diamond buyer with 30+ years trade experience in the niche of super ideal cut diamonds. In my free time, I enjoy freediving & photography.
The incredible #story behind the Sirisha diamond necklace by @BrianGavin 71 #Diamonds cut to order #Amazinghttps://t.co/dHOo1T99xT - 1 year ago

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