“Hi Todd, I’m looking to buy a diamond engagement ring, and have been researching diamonds online. At this point I feel that I know enough to be dangerous, I saw your diamond concierge service and the idea of having you help me cherry-pick the best diamonds available sounds really good to me! I’m not locked in to buying a diamond online from any particular vendor, but have been looking at round ideal cut diamonds for this French set diamond engagement ring from Ritani, in the range of 1.00 – 1.15 carats, D-F color, VS-2 clarity or higher, with a budget of $6-10k for the diamond. I like the in-store preview option that Ritani offers. How does this work? Are you paid a commission by the seller?”
The Ritani French set diamond engagement ring pictured above is definitely an extremely popular ring style at the moment; which is why practically every jewelry designer features some version of the ring as part of their collection. For instance, there is the Brian Gavin Legera pave set diamond engagement ring pictured to the left, which is similar in design, but which features better quality diamonds which are F-G color, and VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature accent diamonds that are cut to the same precision as this 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond, thus the sparkle factor of the center stone and the accent diamonds will be practically the same!
The fact that Brian Gavin uses Brian Gavin Signature melee diamonds in his diamond engagement rings gives him a clear advantage over other jewelry designers, because it means that his customers are assured that the diamonds set in the mountings, will exhibit the same high volume of light return and sparkle factor as larger Brian Gavin Signature cut diamonds.
If you’ve ever had the opportunity to compare the sparkle factor between a super ideal cut diamond and the standard quality diamonds that most jewelry designers set in their rings, you’ll know what I’m talking about when I say that the diamonds in most diamond engagement rings look “flat” but this is not the case with Brian Gavin Signature melee, which is why he’s my go-to-guy when it comes to custom diamond engagement rings.
My top choice is definitely this 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond, because it is the 40.9 degree pavilion angle is going to produce a high volume of light return, while the 34.8 degree crown angle provides a virtual balance of brilliance (white sparkle) and dispersion (colored sparkle) and the 76% lower girdle facets are going to produce the type of sparkle that people notice from across the room! The ASET Scope and Ideal Scope images provided on the diamond details page indicate that the diamond exhibits incredible brightness and that it is light is reflecting evenly throughout the diamond!
Unlike most of the diamonds which I’m going to review below, this 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond is graded by the American Gem Society Laboratory (AGSL) with an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0 on their proprietary Light Performance grading platform, which uses Angular Spectrum Evaluation Technology (ASET) to measure diamonds for brightness, and to determine how they make use of the light which is available to them within the room… this type of insight is invaluable when buying a diamond online, because it provides us with a visual representation of how evenly and consistently light is distributed throughout the diamond.
Another thing that I love about this 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond is that it exhibits strong blue fluorescence, which means that it is going to look perfectly normal (as pictured above) when seen under normal lighting situations, but that it will glow this beautiful neon blue color (pictured left) when exposed to black light! This is kind of like having a hidden super power, because the strong blue fluorescence is likely to make the F-color diamond look even whiter, when it is exposed to light sources which contain high amounts of ultra-violet. Practically every diamond which I have ever selected for myself has exhibited medium to strong blue fluorescence.
All right, so while I’d be apt to go with this 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond because it meets my selection criteria for proportions, as well as for overall diamond cut quality, and optical symmetry, thus I know that it’s going to be the type of diamond that practically stands up on her finger and demands attention, I also recognize that you started out looking for diamonds from Ritani.
If you’d like to follow along step-by-step, you can follow this link to search for round brilliant cut diamonds from Ritani. Be sure to use the “Advanced Options” to limit the search results to round brilliant cut diamonds which are graded as either GIA Excellent or AGS Ideal for polish, symmetry, and proportions; as well as set the range of total depth to between 59 – 61.8% and the table diameter range between 53 – 58% with no culet; which will limit the options to those which have a chance of meeting the selection criteria outlined in the article 15 Seconds to Diamond Buying Success.
So when I searched Ritani for round brilliant cut diamonds weighing between 1.00 – 1.15 carats, which were VS-2 and higher in clarity, and in the range of D to F-color, and under $10k in price, within the range of total depth and table diameter referenced above, and with an overall cut grade of either GIA Excellent or AGS Ideal, I was presented with sixty-one diamonds to consider; which I opened up separately in a new tab in my internet browser, so that I could open up the lab report for each diamond to determine whether the crown angle was between 34.3 – 34.9 degrees, and the pavilion angle was between 40.6 – 40.9 degrees; this range of crown angle and pavilion angle offset represents what I consider to be “the sweet spot” in terms of being that which will provide the highest volume of light return and a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.
As stated previously, when I searched for diamonds on Ritani, I was presented with 61 options to choose from within the range of characteristics that you were looking for, combined with my preferred range of total depth, table diameter, and overall diamond cut quality; that would be a tremendous number of diamond grading reports for the average person to try and make sense out of.
I then flipped through sixty-one diamond grading reports, and ended up with eight options that we are going to explore momentarily, but I wanted to take a moment to address your question regarding my free diamond concierge service, and whether I am paid a commission by the vendors who I work with… the short answer is yes, but I’d like to point out that using my service and clicking on the links provided, does not change your purchase price on the diamond; I’m paid out of the annual advertising budget allotted by each company.
I think you’ll agree after reading this Ritani diamond review, that my expertise and experience provides a certain level of consumer confidence and insight into what to look for when buying a diamond, so that you can rest assured that the diamond you purchase online, will exhibit the desired degree of light return and visual performance… and taking advantage of my services costs you nothing, my fees are paid by the vendors.
Now whereas diamond dealers like Brian Gavin make great effort to determine whether you are working with one of their virtual partners, by taking the time to ask who referred you on their online order form, and by telephone, and then crediting that person with the referral; I have discovered that companies like Blue Nile and Ritani are not so good about that, in fact, neither company tracks orders placed by telephone, it’s as if they make every effort not to pay their affiliate partners the referral fees which they’ve earned…
Thus if you plan on taking advantage of the in-store preview feature offered by Ritani, I would truly appreciate it if you’d use the links provided to order any diamond which is of interest to you, and then designate that you’d like the diamond sent to a local retailer so that you can see it; otherwise Ritani will not track the referral, and I will not be compensated by Ritani for my time.
Ritani only tracks sales generated by clicking through the links provided, they will not track telephone or email orders… your price on the diamond will not be affected by using the link provided, thank you in advance for your cooperation. Your continued support which is provided by clicking on the links contained herein provides the financial support necessary for me to operate this web site and provide you with free diamond buying advice.
Of the eight diamonds that were left after I flipped through the diamond grading reports, my top pick is this 1.12 carat, E-color, VS-1 clarity, round diamond from Ritani, because the combination of ideal proportions and the 75% lower girdle facet length is going to provide a high volume of light return, with a virtual balance of brilliance (white sparkle) and dispersion (colored sparkle) and flashes of light (sparkle) that is larger in size, and bolder, and brighter, and more intense than it would be if the lower girdle facets were in the range of 80 – 82%
The longer lower girdle facet length of 80 – 82% tends to produce smaller flashes of light, which are more like the pin-fire type sparkle that is reflected off of the tiny mirrors of a disco ball… which some people truly do prefer, however, our eyes tend to interpret smaller sparkle as brilliance (white sparkle) instead of dispersion (colored sparkle) because our eyes have difficulty dispersing smaller flashes of light into colored sparkle/dispersion. As you might imagine, this is largely a matter of personal preference, and it might not even be something that the average diamond buyer would ever pick up on, but something which I’m keen to as a diamond buyer by profession.
This diamond exhibits faint blue fluorescence, which is nothing more than an identifying characteristic; it will not affect the visual properties of the diamond, nor will it glow the bright neon blue color exhibited by the 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond (pictured above) when exposed to black light, because the level of fluorescence is only faint, it will barely be visible when the diamond is viewed under black light in a completely dark room.
This 1.00 carat, E-color, VS-1 clarity, round diamond from Ritani would be my second choice for the same reason, there is virtually no difference between this and the 1.12 carat in terms of the projected visual performance by the numbers, the other one is simply larger, so more bang for your buck and all that. This is the diamond that this client ended up purchasing from Ritani by the way, after we exchanged a few more emails back and forth to ensure that it was the best diamond for his preferences and price range.
This diamond exhibits medium blue fluorescence, which will not be visible when the diamond is viewed under normal lighting, but it might help to boost the body color of the diamond a little bit when the diamond is viewed in direct sunlight (when the fluorescent molecules are excited by the UV light) and will cause the diamond to glow neon blue when it is exposed to black light, I’m rather fond of blue fluorescent diamonds.
All right, these next diamonds have 80% lower girdle facets, which means that the sparkle is likely to be more like the pin-fire type sparkle that can be seen flashing off of the tiny mirrors that are glued to a disco ball! Some people like this pin-fire disco ball type of sparkle effect, however, I personally prefer round brilliant ideal diamonds that exhibit the broader spectrum sparkle created by lower girdle facets in the range of 75 – 78% which are typical of Brian Gavin Signature diamonds, but it truly is a matter of personal preference.
All of the round brilliant cut diamonds from Ritani listed below, meet the parameters of my selection criteria for overall cut quality, proportions, inclusion type, extent, and location… they all have 80% lower girdle facets, thus they are perfect if you prefer pin-fire type sparkle:
All of these diamonds are going to exhibit virtually the same volume of light return, and virtually the same degree of brilliance and dispersion, with the primary difference between them and the diamonds, reviewed previously being the type of sparkle being created by the lower girdle facet length.
In truth, you can’t go wrong with any one of them, all of these diamonds are easily within the Top 1% of the annual production for round brilliant cut diamonds, with the 1.021 carat, F-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond being more in the range of the Top 0.001% because of the superior level of optical symmetry, as indicated by the ASET and Ideal Scope images.
All right, so if you’ve made it this far, you’ve probably figured out that I provide a really in-depth review of the diamond details, and make it extremely easy for my readers to pick the best diamonds available.
And hopefully you agree that I’ve earned your appreciation by way of a click through on the affiliate links provided herein, but whether you buy from one of my preferred vendors, or use the links provided is entirely up to you; either way, I hope that you find this Ritani diamond review, and my review of the Brian Gavin Signature helpful. Feel free to take advantage of my free Diamond Concierge Service if you’d like some help sorting out the details, and perhaps I’ll even turn it into a blog post… Note that I held off on doing so, until my client had a chance to choose the 1.00 carat, E-color, VS-1 clarity, round diamond from Ritani.
Todd Gray is a professional diamond buyer with 30+ years of trade experience. He loves to teach people how to buy diamonds that exhibit incredible light performance! In addition to writing for Nice Ice, Todd "ghost writes" blogs and educational content for other diamond sites. When Todd isn't chained to a desk, or consulting for the trade, he enjoys Freediving! (that's like scuba diving, but without air tanks)
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