At the present time, very few people understood how hearts patterns are created in round brilliant cut diamonds. As a matter of fact, the formation of hearts patterns has been a bit of a mystery. After all, it can be quite puzzling to figure out how a diamond cutter creates hearts patterns in round diamonds.
Be that as it may, my goal is to explain the phenomena of hearts and arrows cut diamonds in plain simple English. In order to do so, I sat down with fifth-generation diamond cutter Brian Gavin.
After all, Brian Gavin used to produce hearts and arrows diamonds for our private label collection. In addition, he's the only diamond cutter in the world with a patent for maximizing light performance in the modern round brilliant cut diamond.
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The diagram on the left shows the pavilion facets of a round diamond outlined in orange. The pavilion main facet that is located in the twelve o'clock position has been colored green.
Imagine that the green color is light that is reflecting off the pavilion main facets. That light reflects across the diamond and is split into two halves by the pavilion main facet located in the six o'clock position.
Then that light reflects over on to the lower girdle facet located on either side of the pavilion main. In doing so, it creates one half of the heart shape. This process repeats itself throughout the entire facet structure of the diamond, creating the 360° pattern of hearts.
Obviously, any variance in the size, shape, or indexing of the lower girdle facets will affect the reflection of light. For example, if the lower girdle facets are slightly different lengths, then so will the reflections of light. That is the reason why the tips of some hearts might appear to be bending.