Diamond earrings! (incredible sparkle in 3 easy steps)

“Hi Todd, I bought my wife’s engagement ring from you back in 2002. We’re getting ready to celebrate another year of wedded bliss and have two daughters now! My wife has been hinting that she’d like a pair of Martini style diamond earrings. I’m hoping that you can advise me as to what I should purchase. The hearts and arrows diamond that I bought from you for the engagement ring is VS-2 clarity and G-color. We both really like how that looks, so I’m thinking the diamonds I buy for earrings should be the same quality. What are your thoughts? I’m thinking about something in the range of a carat total weight set in platinum.” — Tim P.

Congratulations on your upcoming wedding anniversary! Thank you very much for remembering me, I do appreciate it! It makes sense to buy better quality diamonds for earrings. You already know from experience, that this combination of color and clarity is going face-up nice and bright.

You know that the sparkle factor is going to be exceptional if we stick with the same proportions and cut quality. And you never know what the next generation might do with these diamonds. If we match the quality of her engagement ring, these diamonds can be combined into a 3 stone ring later.

Best proportions for diamond earrings:

Remember that the sparkle factor of diamond earrings is dictated by three factors:

  • Proportions
  • Cut Quality
  • Optical Precision

Characteristics such as diamond carat weight, clarity, color, and fluorescence are more matters of personal preference.

In order to maximize sparkle factor, stick with these proportions for round diamonds:

Total depth between 59 – 61.8%
Table diameter between 53 – 58%
Crown angle between 34.3 – 35.0 degrees
Pavilion angle between 40.6 – 40.9 degrees
Lower girdle facets between 75 – 80%
Star facets between 45 – 55%
Girdle thickness between thin and slightly thick
Culet: AGS pointed or GIA none

These proportions should produce a high volume of light return and a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion. This means that the diamonds should exhibit a virtual balance of white and colored sparkle.

Incredible Sparkle Requires Optical Precision:

Most people buying diamond earrings focus primarily on carat weight, color and clarity.

A few more savvy diamond shoppers also take the overall cut grade of diamonds into consideration. They are likely to make the mistake of assuming that Excellent or Ideal mean the best sparkle. They might not be aware that those cut grades encompass a broad range of parameters. Nor the difference between the light performance grading standards of the GIA vs AGS gemological laboratories. For example, only the AGS Laboratory takes light performance into account!

Best diamond earrings studs, Black by Brian Gavin, example 104090535047 hearts and arrowsVery few people (such as yourself) have the benefit of knowing the impact that optical precision has upon light performance. This is because very few people have had the privilege of seeing a hearts and arrows diamond in-person. How can people truly appreciate a difference in sparkle factor if they’ve never seen it? I suppose that people face a similar dilemma when trying to choose between fine wine and cheaper brands.

Those familiar with the effects of oak, time and terrier upon wine, are more likely to spend a little more. This is because you have learned to appreciate the little things in life. Smoother taste, fuller flavor, more appreciable undertones, an overall more enjoyable experience. Making the slight difference in cost well worth the expense. The same concept applies to diamonds. Subtle differences in cut quality can have a dramatic effect upon sparkle factor.

When a diamond cutter like Brian Gavin spends more time perfecting the facet structure of a diamond, the sparkle is intensified. Subtle differences in the alignment and positioning of the facets, dramatically improves light performance.

Proportions & Optical Precision are #TheSecret to Spectacular #DiamondEarrings Click To Tweet

Where to buy H&A Diamonds online:

It’s easier than you think to buy an exceptional pair of diamond earrings online.

You just have to know where to find them.

Stick to the proportions outlined above!

Only buy hearts and arrows diamonds!

The pattern is proof positive that the facet structure of the diamond is optimized to deliver the highest visual performance.

In my experience, you’ll want to limit the search to:

Brian Gavin Diamonds makes it really easy:

It is no secret that I am affiliated with all of these companies, nor is it any sort of accidental alliance. Both Brian Gavin and Crafted by Infinity used to produce diamonds for our in-store private label collection. It’s quite likely that the hearts and arrows diamond in your wife’s ring was cut under their direction.

Every Brian Gavin Signature and Crafted by Infinity diamond that I’ve evaluated has been absolutely incredible! The volume of light return is quite literally off the charts. These guys set the bar incredibly high!

The Most Beautiful Diamond EarringsMatched pairs of Hearts & Arrows Diamonds by Brian Gavin

The ability to search for matched pairs of Brian Gavin Signature diamonds makes things incredibly easy. It takes all the guesswork out of the equation by providing you with the best matches. The alternative is to open up a bunch of diamond details pages on your screen. Then sit there flipping back and forth between tabs, trying to remember and match up all the details.

Best Settings for Diamond Earrings:

Best settings diamond earrings, 3 prong martini, handmade by Brian Gavin 18k white goldWith the understanding that I’ve never personally worn a pair of earrings, I tend to prefer these handmade 3 prong martini settings by Brian Gavin. Lots of people tell me that they are the most comfortable! That they offer a low profile and sit comfortably in the ear lobe. The locking earring back provides security and peace of mind. Of course, there are of course many other diamond earrings settings available:

Feel free to take advantage of my free Diamond Concierge Service if you would like help selecting a pair of diamond earrings.

Nice Ice Diamond Concierge ServiceTake advantage of 30+ years diamond buying experience for free!

Todd Gray
Todd Gray is a professional diamond buyer with 30+ years of trade experience. He loves to teach people how to buy diamonds that exhibit incredible light performance! In addition to writing for Nice Ice, Todd "ghost writes" blogs and educational content for other diamond sites. When Todd isn't chained to a desk, or consulting for the trade, he enjoys Freediving! (that's like scuba diving, but without air tanks)
Todd Gray


Professional diamond buyer with 30+ years trade experience in the niche of super ideal cut diamonds. In my free time, I enjoy freediving & photography.
The incredible #story behind the Sirisha diamond necklace by @BrianGavin 71 #Diamonds cut to order #Amazinghttps://t.co/dHOo1T99xT - 2 years ago

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