“I found your site while searching for reviews of the French Set Halo by Ritani. I really appreciate the diamond buying advice you provide. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on this 1.041 carat, H-color, VS-2 clarity, Ritani Reserve diamond. According to your diamond buying cheat sheet, the pavilion angle is off by 0.3 degrees. I’m wondering whether that is reason for concern, or if it’s within tolerance.”
“I’m also wondering how the French Halo by Ritani compares with the Anita Halo setting by Brian Gavin. I was actually leaning towards the Anita setting first, but then a co-worker suggested Ritani to me. The ring styles look pretty similar, but I’m wondering what the differences might be. Based upon some of the articles I’ve read, I get the impression that you’re partial to Brian Gavin. How do those compare with Ritani Reserve ideals? Are they the same thing?”
“By the way, I’m searching for round diamonds weighing between 0.90 – 1.10 carats. My preference is that the diamond be completely eye clean and face-up nice and bright. I’m not exactly sure how that translates in terms of the combination of clarity and color grades. But I’d like to spend no more than $8,000 on the diamond, maybe a little bit more if really necessary. Thank you for your time.” — David R.
The French Halo Setting by Ritani is certainly a beautiful ring, which is quite popular with my readers. Several of my clients have purchased this setting and all of them have told me the same thing. They love the ring, it’s stunning and beautiful, but it feels a little light. In other words, it feels lighter than they seem to think a platinum ring should feel on their finger.
Be that as it may, only one of those clients returned the French Set Halo to Ritani. Consequently, she is the inspiration behind the Anita Halo setting by Brian Gavin. With this in mind, the Anita is named in her honor because the design reflects her style and preferences. As a matter of fact, the little heart that peeks out from underneath the center stone was her idea. By the way, the center stone in her ring is a 1.68 carat, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond.
But let’s get back to the French Set Halo by Ritani which is part of the Bella Vita collection. In Italian, the words Bella Vita loosely translates as being a beautiful and uncomplicated life. That description seems appropriate for a setting as light and beautiful as the French Set Halo by Ritani.
As can be seen within the product description, the setting boasts an accent diamond weight of about 0.23 carats. The diamonds are VS-2 clarity and H-color, which is identical to the Ritani Reserve diamond you are considering. In my experience, VS-2 clarity diamonds face-up eye clean and H-color diamonds face-up nice and white.
In the first place, the Ritani Reserve diamond below has an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0. Not only that, but it was graded on the AGS Laboratories Platinum Light Performance grading platform. Which incorporates Angular Spectrum Evaluation Technology (ASET) to grade diamonds for light performance. With that in mind, this should be a pretty good diamond, right?
Although this may be true, the AGS Ideal-0 cut grade encompasses a broad range of parameters. Which means that it represents a range of proportions and optical precision. To that end, this diamond lies at the low end of the spectrum based on what I'm seeing in the ASET Scope image.
Consequently, we don't need to know the proportions of the diamond to know that it doesn't compare with Brian Gavin. In view of the erratic pattern of light reflecting throughout the ASET Scope image we know this for a fact.
Take a look at all the green splotches interrupting the distribution of red under the table facet for example. To begin with, all of that green along the edge of the diamond should be red. In addition, the manner in which light appears to be reflecting throughout this diamond is uneven. This article on the ASET Scope explains what the different colors of ASET mean.
This Ritani Reserve diamond has a pavilion angle of 41.2 degrees, which is only 0.3 degrees beyond my preferred range. Unfortunately, this seemingly slight variance makes all the difference in the world. Especially when combined with a pavilion depth of 43.6% which is also on the steep side.
On the other hand, a shallower pavilion angle and depth is likely to produce a higher volume of light return. Which is why I look for options with a pavilion angle between 40.6 - 40.9 degrees.
As a matter of fact, that range of pavilion angle is commonly known as the sweet spot. After all, a pavilion angle between 40.6 - 40.9 degrees tends to produce the highest volume of light return. Even though the 34.6 degree crown angle is within the range I recommend, the crown height is a little shallow. In an ideal situation, a crown height between 14.5 - 15% is a better match for this crown angle. Given that it is more likely to produce a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.
From time to time, people ask me to explain the difference between diamond brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation. As a matter of fact, these terms can be confusing. Especially since many people in the diamond industry throw them about all willy-nilly without explaining them properly. With that in mind, I'm going to define the three components of sparkle factor in simple, plain English:
First of all, it's important to realize that the AGS Ideal-0 cut grade encompasses a range or spectrum of possibility. Consequently, there are many different combinations of crown and pavilion angle within the ideal cut range. By the same token, proportions at each end of the spectrum are capable of producing exceptional light return.
I prefer diamonds that exhibit a volume of light return and a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion. Thus, I tend to adhere to the middle of the spectrum when shopping for diamonds. However, you might prefer a different look in an ideal cut diamond.
In which case, this Ritani Reserve diamond might be just what you're looking for. Consider taking advantage of Ritani's in-store preview program and see it alongside the French Set Halo setting. At the same time, a diamond with tighter proportions will produce even better light performance. Let me know if you'd like help searching for better options. Our Diamond Concierge Service is absolutely free and easy to use.
If you think that your preferences might be similar to mine, then adhere to these proportions:
In the first place, a pavilion angle of 40.6 - 40.9 degrees is going to produce the highest volume of light return. At the same time, a crown angle between 34.3 - 35.0 degrees will produce a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.
Lower girdle facets between 75 - 78% produce larger sparkle that is bolder, brighter and more vivid in round diamonds. Correspondingly, round diamonds with lower girdle facets between 80 - 82% tend to exhibit pin-fire type sparkle. That is sparkle that appears to be smaller in size and tends to be less intense.
Both the Anita Setting by Brian Gavin & the French Set Halo by Ritani are beautiful rings in their own right. In my experience, both both designers provide top-notch craftsmanship and both rings offer great value. However, I dare to say that the Anita Halo setting by Brian Gavin is more to my liking.
At the same time, it's more to Anita's liking as well since the design reflects her exact specifications. To say nothing of the fact that the ring creates more presence on your finger because it feels heavier. In addition, it also features a higher carat weight of accent diamonds. We're talking 0.53 carats versus 0.23 carats total weight which is more than double.
By the same token, the accent diamonds in the Anita Halo are of higher quality. Brian Gavin uses accent diamonds cut to the same standard of larger BGD Signature diamonds. Which means that the accent diamonds exhibit the same high volume of light return and incredible sparkle factor. Imagine how incredibly bright a ring like this is going to look on her finger.
Notice how much more red is visible under the table facet and along the edge. The higher concentration of red indicates that this diamond will be brighter. At the same time, light appears to be reflecting more evenly throughout this diamond.
Not surprisingly, the proportions of this super ideal cut diamond are within my preferred range. It's also cut to a higher degree of optical precision, which means brighter and more intense sparkle. Which is why I choose this 1.01 carat, H-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature round diamond over the Ritani. Consequently, it's going to look absolutely amazing in the Anita Halo setting!
Todd Gray is a professional diamond buyer with 30+ years of trade experience. He loves to teach people how to buy diamonds that exhibit incredible light performance! In addition to writing for Nice Ice, Todd "ghost writes" blogs and educational content for other diamond sites. When Todd isn't chained to a desk, or consulting for the trade, he enjoys Freediving! (that's like scuba diving, but without air tanks)
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