Is the Ritani French Set Halo Better Than Brian Gavin Anita?

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May 10

The Ritani French Set halo diamond ring is a modern interpretation of a classic design that features French-set diamonds in the band and around the center stone.

French-set diamonds are smaller in size and held in place by tiny prongs. The low-profile prongs make diamonds appear more significant. It also creates a continual sparkle effect around the center stone and ring shank.

Ritani offers several French-set diamond engagement rings in different styles, as shown here. They're popular because less metal allows more light to enter the accent diamonds.

Ritani French Set Halo Diamond Ring Styles and Prices.

Ritani French Set Engagement Rings.

The popularity of French-set diamonds rose during the 1920s art-deco period. At that time, the technique was new and enabled designers to create dazzling new looks. Many Ritani engagement ring styles feature French-set diamonds.

Ritani French Set Halo vs. Brian Gavin Anita Halo:

Ritani French-set Halo Diamond Ring with Split Shank.

Ritani French-set Split Shank Halo.

This post aims to help you determine what halo engagement ring style is best for your preferences. The Diamond Concierge Service request below is the inspiration for this article:

"I found your site while searching for reviews of the Ritani French Set Halo setting. I appreciate the diamond buying advice you provide. I wonder your thoughts on this 1.041 carat, H-color, VS-2 clarity, Ritani diamond.

"According to the Nice Ice Diamond Buying Blueprint™, the pavilion angle is off by 0.3 degrees. Is that a valid reason for concern, or is it within tolerance?"

Essential Project Details:

Brian Gavin Anita Halo with 1-carat round brilliant.

Brian Gavin Anita Halo Setting.

"I also wonder how the French Halo by Ritani compares with the Brian Gavin Anita Halo setting. I was leaning towards the Anita setting first, but a co-worker suggested Ritani to me."

"The ring styles look pretty similar, but I'm wondering what the differences might be. Based on some of the articles I've read, I think you're partial to Brian Gavin Signature diamonds. How do those compare with Ritani diamonds? Are they the same thing?

"By the way, I'm searching for round diamonds weighing between 0.90 – 1.10 carats. My preference is that the diamond is completely eye-clean and face-up nice and bright."

"I'm not exactly sure how that translates into the combination of clarity and color grades. But I'd like to spend no more than $9,000 on the diamond, maybe more if necessary. Thank you for your time." — David R.

Ritani French Set Halo Review:

French Set Halo Ritani.

The French-set Halo Setting by Ritani is undoubtedly a beautiful ring, which is quite popular with my readers. Several of my clients have purchased this engagement ring, and they have told me the same thing.

They love the ring and think it's stunning but feels slightly light. In other words, they believe a platinum ring should feel more substantial.

Be that as it may, only one of those clients returned the French Set Halo to Ritani. Consequently, she commissioned the Brian Gavin Anita Halo setting that bears her name.

In that case, the Anita Halo setting reflects her style and preferences. The little heart peeking out from underneath the center stone was a special request.

Ritani Bella Vita Collection:

The Ritani French Set Halo setting is part of the Bella Vita collection. Bella Vita loosely translates as being a beautiful and uncomplicated life in Italian.

That seems like an appropriate description for a setting as light and airy as the Ritani French-set Halo engagement ring. According to the description, the mounting boasts 0.23 carats of accent diamonds.

The accent diamonds are VS2 clarity and H-color, which is identical to the Ritani diamond you are considering. In my experience, VS2 clarity diamonds look eye-clean in the face-up position. Simultaneously, an H-color diamond should look bright white from the same vantage point.

Ritani Ideal Cut Diamond Review:

Ritani Reserve Diamond

This Ritani ideal cut diamond has an overall grade of AGS Ideal-0 on the Platinum Light Performance grading platform. In that case, the ASET map on the report lets us determine how evenly light reflects throughout the diamond.

Consequently, an overall cut grade of AGS Ideal-0 doesn't necessarily mean this is a good diamond. On the one hand, the AGSL uses Angular Spectrum Evaluation Technology (ASET) to grade diamond light performance.

On the other hand, the AGS Ideal cut rating encompasses many possibilities. In other words, the performance range is broad, and there are opposite ends of the spectrum.

It's also essential to understand that AGS and GIA do not evaluate optical precision. That is the consistency of facet shape, size, and alignment from the perspective of 360-degrees.

Is This Ritani Diamond Good?

Based on the ASET Scope image, this diamond lies at the low end of the performance spectrum. The uneven pattern of light return and secondary brightness (green) along the diamonds' edge is proof.

The green splotches along the diamonds' edge appear in a region that should be red (primary brightness). Please read this ASET Scope tutorial that explains the meaning of the different colors.

Consequently, it's unnecessary to evaluate the proportions to conclude it's not comparable with a Brian Gavin Signature diamond. It's readily apparent how the lack of optical precision affects light performance.

Ritani Diamond Proportions (case specific):

A diamond's proportions dictate the volume of light return and balance of brilliance and dispersion. Simultaneously, the degree of optical precision determines the size and intensity of the sparkle factor.

Ritani Reserve diamond proportions.

This Ritani diamond has a 41.2-degree pavilion angle (0.3 degrees beyond our recommended proportions). Unfortunately, that seemingly minute difference can dramatically affect the light return.

The 43.6% pavilion depth is another significant factor that contributes to the amount of light leakage. Experts agree that a 40.6 - 40.9 degree pavilion angle produces more light return.

The 34.6-degree crown angle is within the range we recommend. A crown angle between 34.3 and 35-degrees should produce a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.

As that may be, the 13.8% crown height is a mismatch for the crown angle because it's too shallow. In that case, it's likely to produce an imbalance of white sparkle (brilliance) at the expense of dispersion (fire).

Ideally speaking (pun intended), a 14.5 to 15% crown height better matches the 34.6-degree crown angle. In that case, the diamond should exhibit a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.

What is Brilliance, Dispersion & Scintillation?

People ask me to explain the difference between diamond brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation from time to time. These terms can be confusing because trade members use them without explanation.

In contrast, I'm going to define the three components of a diamonds' sparkle factor in plain English:

Diamond Brilliance:

Brilliance is white sparkle, but it's often confused with brightness. In other words, brilliance describes the volume of light return and our perception of intensity.

Brilliance encompasses the internal and external reflections of white light when viewing a diamond in the face-up position. White sparkle (brilliance) affects our perception of brightness because it makes diamonds appear whiter.

Dispersion/Fire:

Dispersion is colored sparkle, which is also known as fire. It is the flashes of colored light created by the facets of a diamond. However, most people don't realize that these colored flashes are white light.

Yes, you did read that last sentence correctly. The rainbow-like flashes of light occur when our human eyes disperse the white light into colors.

Consequently, the Leo modified round brilliant seems brighter because it produces smaller sparkle that human eyes can't disperse into colors.

Scintillation and Contrast Brilliance:

Scintillation is the sparkle created while the diamond is in motion. It occurs when you or the diamond moves and light reflects off the facets.

Proportions and optical precision are essential factors that contribute to scintillation. The difference between light and dark reflections creates contrast brilliance that contributes to the effect.

Intense contrast brilliance and scintillation typical of hearts and arrows diamonds make them sparkle more intensely. It's why some diamonds are more vivid and intense than others.

Best Center Stone for a Ritani French-set Halo:

Riani Reserve Clarity Photograph

It's essential to remember that the AGS Ideal-0 cut grade encompasses a range or spectrum of possibilities. Additionally, there are many different combinations of crown and pavilion angles within the ideal cut range.

The ideal cut proportions rating parameters are broad to accommodate various preferences. However, we prefer to target the middle of the spectrum, which many consider the sweet spot.

The proportions range we recommend produces a high volume of light return and a balance of white and colored sparkles. In contrast, other combinations tend to create more brilliance or dispersion at the expense of the other.

In this case, the steep pavilion angle promotes light leakage and makes the table facet region look dark. There is also a heavy concentration of obstruction, and the arrow shafts are misshapen.

Best Ideal Cut Diamond Proportions:

If you think that your preferences might be similar to mine, then adhere to these proportions:

  • Total depth between 59 – 61.8%.
  • Table diameter between 53 – 58%.
  • Crown angle between 34.3 – 35 degrees.
  • Pavilion angle between 40.6 – 40.9 degrees.
  • Girdle between 0.7% thin to slightly thick.
  • Culet: GIA "none” or AGS "pointed” (same thing).
  • Polish of AGS Ideal or GIA Excellent.
  • Symmetry of AGS Ideal or GIA Excellent.

A 40.6 to 40.9-degree pavilion angle should produce a high volume of light return. Simultaneously, a 34.3 to 35-degree crown angle should create a virtual balance of brilliance and dispersion.

Lower girdle facets (LGF) between 75 to 78% produce a more significant sparkle that is bolder, brighter, and more vivid in round diamonds. In contrast, 80 to 82% LGFs create smaller pin-fire type sparkle that is less intense.

Remember to consider the degree of contrast brilliance and be aware of obstruction. Consequently, Brian Gavin provides all the images necessary to judge light performance.

BGD Anita Setting vs. Ritani French Set Halo:

BGD Anita Halo with Secret Heart.

Brian Gavin Anita Halo Setting.

Both the Anita Setting by Brian Gavin & the French Set Halo by Ritani are beautiful rings in their own right. In my experience, the designers provide top-notch craftsmanship and deliver incredible value.

However, I dare to say that the Anita Halo setting by Brian Gavin is my personal favorite. It's also more to Anita's liking since the design reflects her exact specifications.

The Anita halo also creates more presence on your finger because it feels heavier. Of course, some people prefer a less substantial setting that feels lighter on the hand.

There is also a difference in total carat weight, precisely 0.53 ct., t.w. for the Anita setting and 0.23 carats for the Ritani French-set Halo ring. In that case, the total weight of diamonds in the Anita setting is more than double.

The accent diamonds in the Anita setting reflect the same standard as larger Brian Gavin Signature diamonds. In that case, the smaller diamonds exhibit the same degree of light return and performance.

Brian Gavin Signature Diamond Review:

Brian Gavin Signature Diamond Advanced ASET Map.

BGD Advanced ASET DQD.

The first thing we considered with the Ritani Reserve Diamond was the ASET image. Thus, we will start the same way for this 1.051 carats, H-color, VS-2 clarity, Brian Gavin Signature diamond.

The Advanced ASET map on the DQD confirms that the diamond gathers light from all the right places and reflects light evenly. Consequently, the proportions are also within the range we recommend.

The diamond also exhibits higher optical precision and meets our Hearts and Arrows diamond criteria. In that case, this diamond will show a high volume of light return and broad-spectrum sparkle.

Thank you for taking advantage of my free Diamond Concierge Service. We look forward to seeing pictures of your halo engagement ring! Be sure to tag us on Facebook and Instagram @NiceIceDiamonds if you post your engagement pictures.

About the Author

Todd Gray is the CEO of Gray Matter Development, LLC., DBA Nice Ice Diamonds. He is also a trade consultant and diamond buyer with 35+ years of experience specializing in light performance. Todd also ghostwrites educational content for online ventures and is an avid Freediver.